Friday, September 13, 2013

Lye vs No-Lye Relaxers and Why I Choose To Relax

Lye:
  • Chemical compound is usually sodium hydroxide.
  • For a while only available to licensed cosmetologist, now it can be purchased at most beauty supply stores and on the Internet.
  • Stronger and higher pH ranging between 10-14.
  • Easier on hair because it doesn't deposit mineral on the hair fiber causing dryness.
  • Scalp irritation and burning if scalp not based with protectant.
  • Application needs to be careful and quick to avoid as much damage as possible. With the higher pH the cuticle and base protectant can be breeched quickly.
No-Lye:
  • Usually include an activator step.
  • Main chemical compound is calcium hydroxide.
  • "Box relaxers" generally but can be found as "no mix" formula in tubs.
  • Extremely drying
  • Leaves calcium deposits on hair shaft. Chelating after a relaxer can remedy calcium buildup.
  • Less irritating on the scalp but harsher on the hair.
  • Once applied abide by processing time. Not doing so could result in over processed, dry and limp hair.
  • Straighter results
How Relaxers work?
  • Break the disulfide bonds by penetrating the cortex. Once bonds are broken its irreversible. Relaxed hair can be cut or grown out to remove it otherwise its in a permanent state, hence the term "perm" that is still used in reference to a relaxer.
Why I Choose to relax my hair?
  1. My Choice
  2. My Hair
  3. Convenient for ME
You see those three answers? They have nothing to do with anyone else but me and what I want to do to my hair. I have no desire to go natural, ever! For those that do or are...hats off. I enjoy my relaxed hair and feel I can be diverse with it. Why black woman continue to argue and fight over what other black woman do to their own hair is beyond me. I say do YOU and let me do ME either way doesn't make me more or less black. Just me! :)

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